Organic Lawn Maintenance: Free from Harmful Synthetics
In the quest for a chemical-free garden, controlling and removing common perennial weeds like bindweed, dandelions, horsetail, plantain, stinging nettles, cat's ear, clover, daisy, yarrow, and chickweed can be challenging yet achievable. Here are some organic approaches that primarily involve manual removal, natural weed killers, and cultural practices.
Hand-pulling, especially for garden beds, is often the best organic approach. This method is effective for perennial weeds if you remove as much of the root system as possible to prevent regrowth. For perennial weeds like bindweed and dandelions, persistent and careful digging is necessary to remove deep roots.
Boiling water poured directly on young or newly emerged weeds can kill them without harming the soil. This method is useful for small patches or individual plants.
Homemade herbicides such as sprays made with vinegar, rubbing alcohol mixtures, or clove oil can act as contact herbicides to kill the foliage of smaller weeds like chickweed and nettles. However, these usually don't kill deep roots and need repeated applications for perennials.
Corn gluten meal can suppress weed seed germination when applied at the right time in spring. While it doesn't kill existing weeds, it helps control spread by preventing new seedlings from taking hold.
Mowing or cutting perennial weeds prevents seed production and can weaken plants over time, though it does not kill root systems outright.
Avoid soil disturbance techniques like tilling, as turning soil can bring weed seeds to the surface and worsen infestations. Instead, use mulch to block light and smother weeds where feasible.
In certain agricultural or vineyard settings, managed grazing with sheep can effectively reduce weed growth without chemicals and improve soil health, though this requires skilled management.
In summary, the most effective chemical-free control of these perennial weeds involves consistent hand-pulling with root removal, repeated cutting/mowing, targeted use of natural contact sprays (e.g., vinegar, clove oil), and cultural controls like mulch and timing applications of corn gluten meal for seed suppression. Persistence over multiple seasons is key since many perennials regrow from roots if only the tops are removed.
Not all young plants spotted may be weeds - be sure to look out for garden-worthy self-seeders. Pulling out weeds by hand or hoeing off the tops can leave the roots of perennial weeds intact, causing vigorous regrowth. Small pieces of root from perennial weeds can grow into new plants.
On badly infested ground or in densely planted borders, everything should be dug out and carefully sifted through to remove all weeds. A quick solution to prevent regrowth is to peg down a weed-suppressing fabric, cutting slits to plant into. Another idea is to turf or sow grass seed on the site to mow as a lawn for a few years until the larger weeds die out. Covering the area with old carpet or black polythene for at least two years can also kill off any remaining weed roots.
Greater plantain's tap root can be removed using a garden fork and an old, long-bladed knife. Chickweed can be pulled out by hand or by hoeing, but mature plants bearing seeds should not be placed on the compost heap. Horsetail, or marestail, is deep-rooted and difficult to eradicate. Allowing the stems to develop for four to six weeks before pulling them regularly can weaken the plant.
In the summer, some weeds such as nettles, dandelions, and thistles can go unnoticed because their emerging foliage blends with that of border plants. Clover spreads by creeping among the grass blades below mowing level. Yarrow makes spreading mats of fine foliage when close mowed.
Regularly pulling out the developing shoots of bindweed when they are 20-30cm tall and before they start to twine onto neighbouring plants can weaken the roots. Stinging nettles can be cut down to the ground before they produce seed, weakening the roots. Pruning back all the top growth of brambles or blackberry suckers and digging out the roots can help control their spread.
In a planted border, using a long-handled fork to loosen the soil around the roots and tease out as many weeds as possible can weaken them. Cat's ear's brittle tap root can easily be left behind to regrow. Always removing dandelion flowers before they get a chance to produce masses of fluffy parachute seeds can prevent their spread.
[1] The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control, by Barbara Pleasant and Deborah L. Martin [2] The Complete Organic Fruit and Vegetable Gardener, by Elliot Coleman [3] Weedless Gardening, by Lee Reich [4] The New Organic Grower, by Eliot Coleman
- Incorporating homemade herbicides, such as vinegar or clove oil sprays, into regular gardening routines can aid in controlling small weeds like chickweed and nettles that may arise in a home-and-garden or home-improvement setting.
- For a chemical-free home-and-garden lifestyle, the process of removing troublesome perennial weeds like bindweed, dandelions, horsetail, and cat's ear entails persistent manual removal, like the tactic of hand-pulling with the aim of removing as much of the root system as possible for prevention of regrowth, as proclaimed in various organic gardening resources such as "The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control," "The Complete Organic Fruit and Vegetable Gardener," "Weedless Gardening," and "The New Organic Grower."
