Traversing Mahoosuc Notch: Endeavoring the Appalachian Trail's Lengthiest Mile, With Extra Effort Added
In the heart of the Mahoosuc Range, Jon and Gale navigated treacherous terrain without a definitive end in sight.
May 29, 2018
The Mahoosuc Range, a section of the Appalachian Trail, is only the miles are not meaningless. Hikers describe it as having a distinct identity, characterized by steep inclines, jagged terrain, and narrow passages that demand physical exertion. The contrasting qualities of the trail lends an enigmatic allure to this section of the trail.
The Mahoosuc Trail covers the final 13.1 miles of the Appalachian Trail in New Hampshire and the first 12.8 in Maine. Isolated from the main body of the White Mountain National Forest by a state border, the Mahoosuc Range falls within the forest's boundaries, although some locals remain unaware of this fact.
Growing up in New Hampshire, the author had explored the White Mountains but had never ventured into the Mahoosuc Range. For the trail's centennial and as tribute to the White Mountain National Forest's 100th anniversary, the author decided to embark on a backpacking trek of its 26 miles. The experience proved unlike any other.
OVERCOMING THE INITIAL CHALLENGE
The origin of the name "Mahoosuc" is a subject of debate. Officially adopted on March 26, 1918 by the Appalachian Mountain Club's Committee on Nomenclature, the name was described as "a name with a sonorous quality...a name to conjure with." The council made no mention of the trail's likely indigenous origins, but the word could be derived from an Abenaki term for "home of hungry animals," or a Natick word for "pinnacle." (The author now leans toward the latter, having experienced the trails peaks).
For their route, Jon and the author chose to hike southbound over three days and two nights, commencing from the trails northern terminus in Maine's Grafton Notch. The hiker-friendly amenities of the trail, including AMC-maintained camping sites and shelters every 5 miles or so, were appealing. They planned to spend the first night at Full Goose Shelter, mere steps beyond the notorious Mahoosuc Notch.
Feeling confident after a recent four-day backpacking excursion in California's high peaks, the author anticipated Old Speck Mountain, the highest and northernmost summit in the Mahoosuc Range, would be the towering challenge they would conquer early on day 1, followed by an easier ascent.
Upon setting out from the Grafton Notch trailhead, the author held the belief that hiking was akin to time travel. The straightforward task of trail cutting, as portrayed in the 1921 edition of AMC's White Mountain Guide, seemed almost effortless.
At this point in the western White Mountains, trails had already been carved by the Department of Trails, and the terrain was well-understood. In contrast, the Mahoosucs presented a unique challenge.
At Speck Pond, Jon and the author encountered a northbound AT thru-hiker, who had paused for respite on a log. Inquiring about his plans post-hike, the author found his response disconcerting: "Each mile is better than the last." Consumed by Mahoosuc Notch and Mahoosuc Arm, the hiker's mileage progress had been nerve-wracking, but he opted for an optimistic interpretation of his comment.
In preparation for their hike, Jon and the author had read of the daunting Mahoosuc Notch, the so-called "longest mile" of the AT. AMC's Appalachia journal, from June 1918, described it as suitable for "the well-girt climber," needing "a matter of about one and a half to two hours" to complete. The article warned that the region catered to "the active rather than the leisurely tramper."
The ascent from Mahoosuc Arm left Jon and the author fatigued, their quadriceps sore with every step. By this point, the sun had dipped below the horizon, casting an eerie shadow over the narrow and treacherous mountain pass. It was chilly under the dense tree canopy, with the sub-zero temperatures of the summer streams making the air cold. With night-hiking potentially life-threatening due to the treacherous footing, the pair decided to pitch their tent before reaching Full Goose Camp.
DECIDING WHERE TO SET UP CAMP
Jon and the author awoke the following day ready for new challenges. Day 2 marked the culmination of their journey, as they would cross the Maine-New Hampshire border. With the climb to Full Goose looming, they were grateful they had shortened their first day.
Originally, the Mahoosuc Notch Trail was cleared by the Department of Trails between 1918 and 1921 from Shelburne to Old Speck. In doing so, they were driven by a desire to observe the breathtaking views of Mahoosuc Notch from Mount Washington. The Mahoosuc Notch Trail was, in fact, extended eastward by the AMC from Gorham to Grafton Notch.
In a region as densely populated as New England, the landscape of the Mahoosuc Range remains surprisingly wild. Wondering how the original trail cutters had navigated this desolate land, the author spoke with Zack Urgese, AMC's trail supervisor, who currently manages all AMC-maintained trails within the White Mountain region. Reflecting on his subjective art of route assessment, exhilarating yet challenging terrain calls for compromise.
After stopping for water at Full Goose Camp, Jon and the author pressed on. They spent much of the day traversing open ridgelines and sharp ascent, reaching the summits of Goose Eye and Mount Carlo (3,565 feet). The pair felt a distinct sense of altitude, even though their highest point was under 4,000 feet. They settled exhausted into Gentian Pond Shelter, 11 miles into their hike.
Awakened by the fog the following morning, Jon and the author reluctantly concluded their Mahoosuc Trail adventure. The fog mirrored the rapidly changing weather during their hike - sunny, rainy, or cloudy - that also impacted the lush vegetation, which ranged from deeply green moss in damp areas to bone-dry, almost slippery earth.
As they approached Mount Hayes (2,555 feet), the southernmost and lowest summit, Jon and the author found their pace quickening. However, they released the trail with a sad heart. The terrain of the Mahoosuc Range rewarded its explorers with thrilling, unforgettable challenges, that would leave a lasting impression.
After their challenging initial ascent, Jon and the author decided to set up camp earlier than expected, before reaching Full Goose Camp, due to the difficult terrain and approaching night-time. The following day, they continued their journey, crossing the Maine-New Hampshire border and reached Gentian Pond Shelter, where they spent the night in the midst of their exhilarating home-and-garden experience amidst the outdoor-living wilderness of the Mahoosuc Range.
