Urban Agriculture Revolution: Furniture Artisans Escaped Urban Life and Now Flourish in Pork Farming Heights
In the heart of Old Chatham, New York, Ruby and Sather Duke have transformed a 200-year-old house into a thriving farm and charcuterie business, Hudson Valley Charcuterie. The journey began in 2008, when the couple, with little farming knowledge, purchased the house, inspired by the picturesque surroundings of Hancock Shaker Village.
The Dukes' move was driven by a need for change. They sought a simpler life, a place where their children could run free, and a chance to recover and spend quality time as a family. This change led them to unconventional farming methods, eschewing existing structures and expectations.
Trevor Kunk, former chef de cuisine at Blue Hill, was one of the first to discover Raven & Boar in 2010. Impressed by their commitment to quality, he committed to buying a whole pig, sight unseen. This act of faith marked the beginning of Raven & Boar's rise in the culinary world.
A successful Kickstarter campaign in 2019 further propelled their venture. The campaign, aiming to raise $60,000, was a resounding success, offering perks such as a farmer's breakfast at Blue Hill, an on-farm butchering demo, and a limited-edition cookbook. Adjoining the kitchen will be a space for classes and events, all scheduled to be completed by spring.
The unique feeding practices at Raven & Boar have played a significant role in their success. The pigs are fed goat whey from Coach Farm, soaked with local corn, along with foraged clover, orchard grass, acorns, turnips, and an old variety of beet called "mangles." This varied diet, combined with the protein in the whey, has a dramatic impact on flavor, resulting in super healthy pigs with the kind of fat deposits and marbling that impart incredible flavor.
Raven & Boar's pork has found favour with renowned restaurants such as Gramercy Tavern, Blue Hill, and Bar Boulud. The pigs are hung overnight and Ruby delivers to restaurants the next day, ensuring freshness and minimizing stress for the animals during transportation.
The pigs are not farrowed at Raven & Boar, but instead, a close relationship is cultivated with a breeder who works with a mix of heritage breeds like Tamworth, Red Wattle, and Gloucestershire Old Spot. This fall, 13 Gramercy Tavern cooks spent a weekend on the farm, gaining a deep appreciation for the farm and understanding the care that goes into raising the animals and vegetables.
As Hudson Valley Charcuterie takes shape, the Dukes are constructing a certified kitchen and fermentation chamber. Sather has built a test kitchen equipped with new equipment like an Italian Celletta fermenting chamber and an American Biro meat grinder. The farm-raised animals and vegetables are used in feasts prepared by the visiting chefs, showcasing the quality of their produce.
The success of Hudson Valley Charcuterie is a testament to the power of passion-driven decisions. The Dukes' commitment to quality, sustainability, and ethical farming practices has resonated with chefs seeking exceptional pork, setting their farm apart in the competitive culinary world.
Tastemaker Trevor Kunk, impressed by Raven & Boar's commitment to quality, began purchasing whole pigs from the farm, signaling a positive shift in their presence within the culinary world. As Hudson Valley Charcuterie flourishes, it attracts renowned chefs like Gramercy Tavern's team, who find value in the farm's lifestyle, food-and-drink, and home-and-garden practices, ultimately promoting the Dukes as tastemakers in their industry.
