Venerated Carnaroli rice is deeply rooted in Lombardy's agricultural history, comprising a long-standing practice of cultivation.
In the heart of Milan, Italy's second-biggest agricultural city, lies a farm that's redefining the art of rice cultivation. Francesco Bossi, a farmer from a family of 'contadini' (peasants), is leading the charge with his organic farm that adopts regenerative farming principles.
Bossi's favourite meal is saffron-infused risotto alla Milanese, a classic Lombardy dish that he serves with Ossobuco alla Milanese, a slow-cooked veal stew known for its lemony, garlicky gremolata. The quality of the risotto can significantly impact the dish, and Bossi only uses the best – his own organically grown Carnaroli rice.
Carnaroli rice, considered one of the best for Italian cuisine, is well-suited for making risotto without getting too mushy. Bossi grows this variety on his farm, which he sells to a few shops in Milan and opened a little shop at the farm in January this year.
Traditional Lombardy rice farming methods emphasize precise timing of sowing and water management due to the region's cooler climate and shorter growing seasons. Farmers often rely on flooded paddy fields to support the cultivation of rice, mainly short- and medium-grain varieties suited to local conditions. These methods involve careful soil preparation, seeding, continuous water control, and often crop rotation, respecting the delicate balance of the wetland ecosystems surrounding the Po Valley.
Bossi adapts these traditional techniques by integrating regenerative and organic farming principles. He focuses on enhancing soil health and biodiversity without synthetic chemicals, often using natural composts and crop rotations to maintain fertility. Bossi may adopt innovative organic approaches such as precision in water use to minimize waste and disease pressure, while still preserving the cultural heritage of rice cultivation in Lombardy.
Lombardy's climate is similar to parts of Asia, with a microclimate influenced by the Po river. This unique environment supports a diverse range of rice varieties, from the long-grain Arborio to the short-grain Carnaroli. The region is known for its rice dishes, with the Lombardy 2020 guide featuring three rice dishes, including Involtini di Verza, Riso alla pitocca, and Ossobuco alla Milanese.
Involtini di Verza, a dish originating in Bergamo, is a Lombardy answer to stuffed pasta. Riso alla pitocca is a stodgy, pseudo risotto from Lombardy, named after beggars in the 17th century. Despite Milan's industrial heritage, there are still 40 farms within the city limits, providing a glimpse into the region's agricultural past.
Bossi plans to branch out into the agriturismo business by offering accommodation for guests. This move will further solidify his farm as a destination for those seeking authentic Italian cuisine, made with love and care, and a connection to the land and its traditions.
The Lombardy 2020 guide, published with the Nov/Dec 2020 issue of Traveller (UK) website, serves as a testament to Bossi's commitment to producing a healthy product. He expresses a sense of responsibility to cater to the needs of his customers while preserving the environment and the cultural heritage of Lombardy's rice cultivation.
- Francesco Bossi, the farmer from Milan's second-biggest agricultural city, prefers a meal that showcases his local produce, specifically saffron-infused risotto alla Milanese and Ossobuco alla Milanese, both traditional Lombardy dishes.
- In addition to selling his organically grown Carnaroli rice to a few shops in Milan, Bossi opened a little shop at his farm this year, making it a destination for those interested in authentic Italian food and lifestyle.
- Significant attention to soil health and biodiversity, without synthetic chemicals, is crucial to Bossi's regenerative farming principles, which he integrates with traditional Lombardy rice farming methods.
- Milan's industrial heritage contrasts with its agricultural past, as there are still 40 farms within the city limits, offering a glimpse into Lombardy's food-and-drink culture and rich history, evident in a guide published by Traveller (UK) in 2020.
